Greece (Athens and the Cyclades)... the End

After our long journey from Siena to the Rome Airport, we finally arrived in Athens.  Due to the fact that we were unable to sleep the night that we traveled, we happily arrived at our hotel ready to sleep for the rest of the day.  Considering we only gave ourselves two days in Athens and one day was spent sleeping, we awoke early the following morning to see what Athens had to offer.

We began at the Ancient Agora, where Plato and Socrates would have spent their time philosophizing.  It was reminiscent of the Forum in Rome.  Ruins of the various buildings remained; the best preserved building was the Temple of Hephaestus on top of a hill.  The details that still remained on the top of this temple from the 4^th century BC were incredible.  From the Agora we could see the Acropolis on top of a hill (funny that Acropolis means top of a hill, probably no connection…).  After we had looked around the Agora for a while, we trekked up the steep walkways to the Acropolis, the most famous landmark in the city.

Temple of Hephaestus

Parthenon, with lots of renovation!

This elevated vantage point gave us a better perspective on the foreign city.  Athens is relatively flat, without large skyscrapers, and spreads out in all directions one can see.  There are a few mountains that stick up from the flat white image of the city that add a unique element missing from many other cities.  Within the Acropolis complex are the Parthenon, Temple of Athena, Dionysus Theatre, and other ruins of buildings.  As amazing as these sights were, it was a little hard to get past the renovations that were taking place on the Parthenon and interrupting the enjoyment of this influential building.  From there we took a quick walk down to the Temple of Olympian Zeus.  This again was an impressive display of ruins and Greek architecture, although there were only a few remaining columns.  If you go to Athens there is a ticket that gives you admission into all of these places mentioned for about 12 euro (6 for students).

Temple of Olympian Zeus

Yummy Yummy Kebabs!

We spent about 4 hours seeing the historic sights and we pretty much had had enough of Athens.  We found that Athens did not offer much more than these few sights.  We have enjoyed exploring all the cities we have visited, however we were not inclined to do so in Athens.  Everything, even the designer shops, is covered with graffiti which greatly detracts from the appeal of this city.  Beyond this, the streets are dirty and seem haphazard, and do not seem particularly safe after dark.  We did enjoy the Greek cuisine of kebabs and Greek salads while we were there, but we were ready to leave Athens and start our tour of the Islands!  Our tour consisted of spending two nights on four different islands.

As seen everywhere

We took a ferry from the port in Athens to the island of Mykonos.  We spent our first two nights in Mykonos in a tiny, plywood cabin right at a resort on the water.  Aside from our sleeping arrangements we had a pleasant time on this island.  The downtown area contained small, narrow whitewashed pedestrian streets filled with shops and restaurants.  This area was very picturesque and we dined at some great restaurants, breaking our tradition of only eating kebabs.  There was a beautiful area with a row of windmills where we watched the sunset one night.  The beach we were at was a little bit of a disappointment because it was full of beach beds that you had to pay for.  We of course went out and bought a beach towel (one beach towel for the two of us to share, a clear indication of our monetary status).  The sand was also very rough on our feet at this beach, but there was a very large rock that spanned the entire beach that housed some beautiful fish.  We were excited to be out of the hustle and bustle of the city life, enjoying the relaxation of the island life.

We then boarded another ferry that took us to the island of Paros.  We were greeted by our hostess at the port and were taken to our guesthouse.  It was quite the difference from our accommodation in Mykonos which we were highly pleased about.  We also decided to rent an ATV to explore the island.  We highly recommend renting an ATV or car when visiting the islands because it gives you more freedom to explore and find some great little beaches that are less populated.  We actually planned our trip well because we got to the islands at the beginning of the low season which meant that prices were better and it was much less crowded.  It is actually incredibly cheap to stay on the islands; the comfortable guesthouse in Paros was about $40 total per night!

Where we were able to jump off cliffs

Our ATV

In Paros we found beautiful beaches that suited us much better than those in Mykonos.  Our second day we took our ATV on the ferry to visit the smaller island of Antiparos (vacation home to Brad and Angelina).  We also found great beaches here and were able to go up the hills and see some amazing views.  Many people cliff dive here so while we were riding around we saw a small area with pristine waters where we could hike down to and then jump off.  Although it was a rough walk down through uneven terrain it was worth it.  That night we went back to Paros and had a wonderful dinner of traditional Greek food that had been recommended to us.  Like Mykonos there was a whitewashed downtown area that was very beautiful.

You can see the semicircle shape of the island

Our next destination was Santorini.  This is the picturesque island that everyone thinks of when they picture the Greek Islands.  It was truly breathtaking.  Santorini was formed by a volcano that erupted, so the island is a semicircle and you can see the volcano out in center of the bay.  The inside face of the semicircle terminates in a high, sheer cliff face.  It was a spectacular sight, and very different from the first two islands we had visited.

We rented an ATV here as well and set out to explore the most popular island in Greece.  Due to the volcano, some of the beaches have black sand.  They were beautiful and not crowded; another advantage of visiting after the end of the high season.  Along the beach there are volcanic rocks and once you get about 15 feet out into the water you are walking on smooth hardened lava, devoid of sand.  It is one of the most unique things we had ever seen.  In Santorini there was also a red beach that you could hike over to, however we preferred the black beaches of Perissa.

In Santorini we stayed right in the center of Fira, which is the main town on the island.  It was truly beautiful, with white buildings climbing the sides of the cliff.  There were paths that could be taken down to the water; however the return walk would have been extremely rough.  They use donkeys to take people down the steep cliffs, however we were advised not to because the treatment of these animals is not always very good (not that we would have wanted to anyways).  Our first night we went to the town of Oia on the tip of Santorini.  This is a place known for its sunset which was clear by the number of people jostling for a spot to look out.  We were lucky enough to find a restaurant to get a drink at and enjoy the sunset.  In Oia we also went down to their marina which was beautiful and had red cliffs in the background that contrasted nicely with the clear blue water.

The town of Fira

The town of Oia (on the hill) and its bay

Santorini is the most popular island for a reason and proved to be our favorite of the islands we visited.  Our opinions might have been different if we had gone a month earlier because even in the low season the towns were crowded with tourists from cruise ships that docked there (they actually docked in the middle of the water because the port is too small).  Our host, a party loving Italian named Corrado, told us that he swims until the first week in December so if you have a choice it would be best to go early spring or during the fall.

Our final destination was the island of Ios.  This is an island most known for its night life.  Therefore the center of town was not as nice as the other islands because it wasn’t very accommodating to the daytime crowd.  We did stay at a wonderful resort that was right on the water and offered water sport activities.  We passed on paying 30 euro for 10 minutes of water skiing or tubing though.  The hours spent on Keyser Lake definitely lowered our price point for that activity!  It was enjoyable to be in the relaxed atmosphere and spend some time on the beach working on our tans during our final days. 

The view from our resort in Ios

We were finally ready to start the second half of our world travels…in China!  Thanks to everyone who has followed us on our travels.  We truly had a trip of a lifetime.  Now we are excited to spend some time with Matt’s family and enjoy even more fabulous experiences!  See you in November!

Italy (Siena)

Duomo in Orvieto

Siena is a small, medieval town north of Rome in Tuscany.  On our trip to Siena we made a two hour stop in the small hilltop town of Orvieto.  Orvieto is home to a beautiful duomo in the center of town.  We were able to enjoy views from our elevated vantage.  After walking around the narrow streets and enjoying some gelato we boarded our bus for our final journey with Busabout.

Marilyn on the Orvieto town wall The Siena Duomo, similar to Orvieto wouldn't you say? We arrived in Siena, excited to be staying in such a picturesque town that was everything you'd picture an Italian town to be.  There are a few main sights in this small town, Piazza del Campo and a duomo.  Piazza del Campo is the main square in town with a large bell tower offering views of the town.  This square is actually a semicircle that slants down resembling a shallow stadium.  It is famous for the annual horse race, Palio de Siena, which takes place in mid-August.  Unfortunately we just missed it.  The race is between the neighborhoods of Siena and is taken very seriously, giving the winner much in the way of bragging rights.  The duomo has black and white patterned stone work on the outside that gives it a beautiful appearance.  It is most known for the marble work on the floor inside the church, depicting pictures along the main aisle. Piazza del Campo at night Drummers and flag bearers who were parading around the streets for hours.  This had something to do with the recent horse race, but we couldn't quite figure out what exactly. Much of the appeal of Siena is in walking down the pedestrian streets, catching glimpses of serene alleyways and views of far off mountains. There are numerous places in town that offer amazing vantage points.  We actually lucked out, having a wonderful view from our room in our bed and breakfast.  It looked down a street onto San Domenico Basilica and to the mountains off in the distance. Veiw of Siena from below San Domenico at dusk San Domenico is known for housing relics of Saint Catherine.  They boast of having her head and thumb.  We did not see her thumb; however her head was on full display. At first glance it seems that it is just a picture or model of her, however on closer examination we were able to see that it was indeed her skull wearing a habit.  We were both quite shocked by this and pondered the various ways they may have acquired this.  There was a sign informing us that this was not just an ordinary 'head', but this had been officially verified as her head.  We were quite relieved to know that we were not looking at some unimportant person’s skull. Saint Catherine's head!! We often look to Tripadvisor for advice on things to do, as you may know. The top item in Siena was the Tuscany Wine School where you could take a 2 hour course, sampling half a dozen wines, enjoying snacks, and learning about wine native to Italy, more specifically the Tuscan region.  We decided it was something we both really wanted to do and ended up being one of our highlights from this trip. We had a great time learning everything from how to properly taste wine to the government regulations on Italian wine.  More importantly, we realized that we had only scratched the surface of what there is to know.  The variety of offered wines was delicious, by far the best that we have had on our trip. Our wine classroom Since Siena was our last stop in Italy we decided to take full advantage of all the delicious food.  We enjoyed two delicious dinners that had been recommended in our guide book.  Our last meal was incredible.  Matt got handmade pasta stuffed with meat in a gorgonzola sauce and Marilyn got a dish of pici with mushrooms and a delicious sauce.  We then split a dish of tender veal with white beans covered in a delicious sauce.  It is hard to describe the wonderful meal; however it could not go unmentioned! The two of us walking around before dinner The scooter Our final day in Siena could possibly be our favorite day from the entire trip.  We rented a Vespa scooter early in the morning and spent the day scooting around the Tuscan countryside.  It was truly breathtaking.  Matt handled the Vespa like a pro (after almost hitting a pedestrian) while Marilyn held on for dear life, risking it all to document the trip.  We traveled through small towns, taking frequent stops to capture the scenery. We luckily chose a path that wound beautifully through farm fields, vineyards and olive groves.  We made our final stop in Montalcino, a spectacular town perched high on a hill, known for its high quality Brunello wine.  We ate sandwiches from the local deli on the edge of a vineyard, overlooking miles of uninterrupted rolling hills.  Our ride back was just as beautiful, however we were disappointed to exchange the freedom the Vespa gave us for our heavy backpacks and a tedious 19 hour journey back to Rome and finally to Athens.  There are a lot of pictures coming up, it was too hard to just pick one or two! View from Montalcino Our picnic site One of the many vineyards

Italy (Rome)

We arrived to our hostel in Rome in the late evening and were greeted by our host Francesca.  It was more of a guesthouse, as there were only 3 rooms and a small kitchen area; a very charming little place in a nice neighborhood near the Colosseum.  Francesca was a very gracious and friendly host.  She provided us with a great map of the city, as well as several tips on places to see, eat, drink, and get groceries.  We were pretty worn out from our day of travel, so we grabbed a bite at a nearby café and relaxed for the night.  The city of Rome occupies a hefty section of every tour book, so we knew we needed our rest for the days of sightseeing ahead.  We found a guided tour which met the next day at 5:30pm, with a highly rated and reviewed tour guide named Stephano (thanks Tripadvisor!).

The Colosseum at night

There was quite a bit of time before our tour, so we decided to walk around, get a feel for the city, and see some of the highlights ourselves.  We walked past the Colosseum, the Circus Maximus, some Roman bath ruins, the Vittorio Emmanuel Monument, the old Roman Forum, Palatine Hill, Trevi Fountain, some more ruins, and finally ended at the Spanish Steps where our tour met.  The Vittorio Emmanuel monument celebrates Italy’s unification and independence, which was gained back in 1861, making this year the 150^th anniversary.  It housed a museum which detailed the years and events leading up to the unification.  It struck us as a very turbulent effort, with several failed attempts before eventual success.  Even after unification, Rome was not part of Italy until a few years later.  It was not until after a siege of the city that the Pope gave up his temporal powers and Rome became the rightful capital of a united Italy.

Marilyn in front of the Vittorio Emanuele Monument at night

Ruins in the old Roman Forum

A famous Bernini sculpture

Anyway, we met Stephano as planned and set out on our tour.  He was a short, older Italian man, who was very animated and passionate about his city.  We learned about Pope Urban, who was very instrumental in Roman city works.  His mark, the bumblebee (an insect that he was particularly enamored with), was evident in several fountains, buildings, and even on the lone restored pillar of the Pantheon.  The Pantheon was probably the most impressive sight that we saw; a 2000 year old domed structure which has deteriorated only slightly through the years.  The dome was the largest in the world until the New Orleans Superdome was built, and if constructed with modern concrete and construction methods, would have crumbled long ago.  Stephano also took us in to a few beautiful churches, including one with two famous sculptures by Bernini.  It was a great tour, but an exhausting day.  We decided to replenish our energy by eating at one of the restaurants Francesca had recommended.  It turned out to be a great pasta meal, and we were thankful that we had saved our money so we could eat out more in Italy.

The Pantheon

Our dinner!

We dedicated the next day for seeing the Vatican.  No trip to Rome would be complete without it.  As you may know, the Vatican is actually its own sovereign nation, .44 sq. km of walled land plopped down in central Rome.  We elected to see the Vatican museums first, which includes the Sistine Chapel.  We’re not experts, but this has to be one of the most impressive museums in the world.  There are rooms filled with ancient sculptures, many more than 2000 years old.  Pottery from the Etruscan people before the Roman Empire.  Paintings by all the famous Renaissance men, Michelangelo, Raphael, Leonardo da Vinci, etc, etc.  Each piece we saw was another priceless work of art.  We found out that this amazing collection was put together after a mandate by the Catholic Church in the 17 and 1800s to collect and preserve important works of art.  The last stop was the Sistine Chapel, whose entire ceiling is famously painted by Michelangelo.  As if this wasn’t impressive enough, we obviously had to see St. Peter’s Basilica.  This enormous cathedral is like no other, and really can’t be compared to any church, cathedral, or duomo we have seen.  It also houses Michelangelo’s Pieta, easy to spot because of the crowds of people angling to get a good picture.  It is the only work that Michelangelo ever signed.  It was another full day, but we weren’t done yet!

If I remember, this is what remains of a Greek statue, made a few hundred years B.C.

The famous Michelangelo statue in St. Peter's Basilica

The roof of the Sistine Chapel

Marilyn in St. Peter's Basilica

The front facade of St. Peter's Basilica.  Hard to appreciate from just a picture!

Next on the list was the Colosseum.  Armed with some good info (again from Tripadvisor!) we were able to skip the probably hour+ line and get our tickets within 5 minutes.  For anyone who plans to visit, you can do this in one of two ways.  First, you can go to the Palatine Hill/Roman Forum first and buy your ticket there; this is a combined ticket with the Colosseum, the same one you would get at the Colosseum.  Alternatively, if you look for the signs pointing to the audio tour at the Colosseum, you can skip right past everyone, and buy your ticket at the same time as the audio tour, which, like I said, is only about a 5 minute line!  Anyway, this was another amazing feat of Roman engineering which has stood the test of time.  Standing there and imagining how 50,000+ people watched the bloody games 2000 years ago is very surreal.  It is truly amazing how advanced the Romans were.  They had organized ticket systems for spectators, bathrooms, and even stoves and ovens for re-heating or preparing food.  Modern stadiums are so clearly influenced by this early structure.

The Colosseum with some other ruins in the foreground

Inside of the Colosseum.  The small amount of wood floor shown is a recreation

We spent the rest of the afternoon exploring the many ruins of the Palatine Hill and Roman Forum area.  Though much less well preserved, these areas are still very impressive.  Historians have created virtual reconstructions based on research and excavations.  What a truly amazing area this must have been.  Afterward, we headed over to the San Clemente Basilica.  This is nice, church, but nothing too special.  The real draw lies below the surface.  Literally.  Descending the staircase you find yourself in a 4^th century church.  There are still pillars intact and remnants on the walls.  From there you can take another staircase down and discover a 1^st century pagan temple.  The altar and various rooms have been preserved.  This was quite remarkable and unique to this area.  The river that flows through Rome used to regularly flood before dams were built.  Therefore, over the years the flooding added layers of sediment, covering and protecting these places of worship.  

The stairs down to the 4th century church

A room from the 1st century temple

Rome did a good job of wiping us out, but we still have one more stop in Italy... Siena.