Tuesday, July 26, 2011

Belgium (Brussels, Bruges)

Our Belgium travels began in the EU and Belgium capital, Brussels.  It began with a 2 mile walk from the train station to our hotel with our packs in tow and a map that could be qualified as less than good. Our indirect route left us unsure of what to expect from this city.  After walking around for a bit, we decided to try out some Belgian fare for dinner.  Accustomed to American menus, we assumed that the entrees section contained main courses.  However, the real meaning was appetizers, and Matt was shocked to receive 6 tiny shrimp in garlic sauce as his entire meal, costing around $18!  A trip to the local burger joint, Quick Burger, was in order directly afterward. 

Brussels Royal Palace

Close to midnight, we finally made our way down to Grand Place.  Wandering down small, cobblestone streets in the dark we stumbled into the main square.  It was breathtaking!  Late at night, there were very few other people there; something we realized the next day was a rarity (this sight is actually quite disappointing during the day due to the vast number of tourists).  The amazing, centuries old buildings were lit up with floodlights and were spectacular to see.  There were several bars nearby, and we were up late sampling a few of the dozens of different Belgian beers available.


City Hall in Brussels Grand Place
We spent the next two days exploring the fairly large city.  Many of our favorite architectural sites were built during the rule of Leopold the 2nd.  When he was in power in the 1800s, he actually personally owned the Congo.  He ruthlessly exploited the native people there in quest of natural resources, and several great works of architecture in Brussels were completed because of this.  They were amazing to look at, but they were tainted by his actions.  Another famous sight is Manneken Pis, a little boy peeing into a fountain.  Little boy is not an exaggeration; it was tiny and disappointing, yet surprisingly popular in Brussels.  The best part of this statue is that a museum in Grand Place houses his 800 outfits which we were lucky enough to see. 

Government Building built for Leopold II

The Manneken Pis
Copies of the little Mann in Different Outfits




















Outside the Brewery
Belgium is known for their beer and it was unlike anything we had been exposed to before.  A popular style in Belgium are different kinds of wheat beer; blonde, white, and some darker varieties.  Several of the beers tasted like a hybrid of champagne and beer and were sold in corked champagne style bottles.  There was also a large fruit infused selection (clearly Marilyn’s favorite because they tasted the least like beer).  On a tour of the Cantillion Brewery we learned about this type of beer, Lambic, that is very unique and native to Brussels.  It uses a very rare type of fermentation called spontaneous fermentation in which the yeasts are collected by letting the initial stage of beer, called wort, be exposed to the Brussels air (there are two strains of airborne yeast that are said to be unique to the region).  From there it is allowed to ferment for 3 years, and all sugars are removed, leaving a dry acidic drink that tastes more like a white wine or champagne than beer.  There are many imitations of Lambic that produce the drink more quickly, but the difference in taste is very apparent.  This brewery was off the beaten path but was well worth the walk.



The large wooden barrels where the Lambic ferments for three years


We hopped on a train and an hour later we arrived in Bruges.  For anyone who has seen the movie, it is no exaggeration.  The beauty of this small city is breathtaking and we instantly loved it.  It is picturesque at every turn, making it difficult to put the camera down.  The main attraction is the towering belfry, which you can climb to the top of (366 steps) for a great panoramic of the town and its surroundings.  There is also a Michelangelo statue of Madonna and her child housed in a cathedral which is one of his only works to leave Italy.  On display as well are a few drops of Christ’s blood contained in a vial, unfortunately Matt dropped the vial, but no one seemed too upset. 

Canals with Belfry in Background (this was set for extra long exposure, so the bright white objects in the canal are actually swans)

View while eating lunch

City Hall and Museum in the Burg
 
The Belfry in the Markt Square
View of the Town from the Belfry

View of the Markt Square from the Belfry

Canal with Restaurant and Tourboats

Some of these sights are true ‘tourist traps’.  A combination of long lines and a very narrow staircase made it quite hard to maneuver in the belfry.  With a population of about 26,000, Bruges has about as many tourists as natives.  However, as crowded as the city was, it did not take away from our experience.  Once we were away from main areas, Bruges was perfect for wandering around… always something beautiful or amazing around every corner.  What really made this city so incredible was that every house and shop matched and maintained the old fashion look.  Couple this with sprawling weeping willows, large gardens and parks, and a winding network of canals, and we could not ask for anything else.  We highly recommend a visit to this beautiful, unique city.

Matt and Marilyn on the canal bridge



The Cathedral

Canals with Belfry in Background

The Cathedral


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