Germany (Berlin)

Berlin was our first stop where we had to stay in two different hostels. Our first night we stayed in the ultra-modern Generator Hostel.  We arrived at night and did not want to venture into the city, as we were staying in the outskirts of this huge city.  Fortunately, this brief stay at the Generator brought us to a wonderful Italian restaurant.  The following morning we threw on our backpacks and walked to the hostel that we would be staying in for the next 4 night.  We were anxious to see what Berlin would have in store for us, so we hopped on the tram and headed into the city. We found the transportation in Berlin to be very efficient as the trams ran every four or five minutes, covering the sprawling city.  Even better, the trams are free in Berlin.  Okay so maybe they aren’t free, but since no one checks tickets we took this opportunity to save a little money!

Marilyn at the Brandenburg Gate, the entrance to Berlin... this area isn't exactly rough around the edges!

Our first impression was that Berlin was a little rough around the edges and not as picturesque as some of the cities we had seen.  What this city lacked in beauty it made up for in history and character.  Everyone knows that Berlin was the center of world events for much of the 20^th century, but being there and seeing pieces of history was exceptionally captivating.  We joined up with a walking tour and had a great guide who showed us some of the highlights and gave us some great historical anecdotes.  Later we went back to some of the sites and explored in more detail.

The Berliner Dom, one of the largest Protestant cathedrals in the world

The first thing we saw was the Holocaust Memorial.  Its lack of explanation and puzzling design elicit different thoughts and reactions in every viewer.  The memorial resembles a large maze, with tomb-like towers varying in height and an uneven ground.  The architect did not disclose much about what the memorial is supposed to represent, but he did say two things.  One is that he wants it to be a disorienting experience for the visitor which we both found it to be.  He was also influenced by the 15^th century Jewish Cemetery in Prague. The Jewish people there had limited land to bury their dead so they were forced to bury the bodies stacked vertically creating a similarly uneven ground.  The museum which is directly underneath the memorial was a singularly sobering experience.  

The Berlin Holocaust Memorial

Nearby was the exact location that Hitler committed suicide in his underground bunker.  In comparison to the thought that had gone into the Holocaust Memorial, the complete lack of acknowledgment of this site is telling; the entire vicinity is simply an ordinary parking lot.  From there we moved on to the ‘Topography of Terror’.  This is a long memorial with plentiful information and pictorial evidence from the Nazi era.  It lays out in vivid detail how the Nazis came to power, spread fear and propaganda, and committed one of the worst atrocities in history.  It was situated between a section of still standing Berlin Wall and the rubble of the former SS headquarters. It was informative, captivating, and horrifying.  It took us nearly 5 hours to work our way through the exhibits over two days.  As terrible as this history must be for Germans to have, we found that Germany and the city of Berlin own up to what they did, and make no attempt to hide anything.  

The Topography of Terror Exhibits, Berlin Wall in the background

Close-up of a section of the Berlin Wall

Next we explored the evidence and relevant areas pertaining to the era of Soviet occupation.  Scattered throughout the city are remnants of the Berlin wall, guard towers, and checkpoints.  Wherever the wall was completely destroyed, a line of bricks has been placed in the road or sidewalk.  From everything you hear about the wall, it is actually a letdown when you see it in person.  It is no more than 12 feet high and maybe 8 inches thick.  We were expecting something closer to the Great Wall of China!  We walked past the famous Checkpoint Charlie (now a busy shopping district), where brinksmanship took the form of a standoff of dozens of tanks.  We also saw the former Communist Ministry Headquarters of East Berlin, a bleak, imposing grey building which has been featured in many movies.  Though it has been over twenty years since the wall fell, the separation of the city is still very evident.  Our hostel was deep inside the former East Berlin, and the neighborhood was dominated by the stark communist architecture.  West Berlin is still more affluent than the East, even though large investments in the Eastern infrastructure are improving conditions. Berlin was once a single city, then divided into two very different ones, and now has tried to reintegrate into a single entity.  As such, it has the very unique feel of a city in constant flux.

Section of the Berlin Wall covered in graffiti, near Checkpoint Charlie

The two of us at the pub crawl

Berlin is not just a city for history buffs; it has a very lively and diverse culture.  There is a solid mixture of new and old.  Berlin is known as a cutting edge city, it is the birthplace of techno after all.  We went on a pub crawl which clearly showed this dynamic.  The first two bars that we started out in were traditional pubs with history on the walls.  The last two stops were quite different.  One was a beach bar in landlocked Berlin and the other a large club that played modern electronic music.  All were a great time, and only got better as the night went along!

Speaking of drinking…the beer in Germany was by far our favorite.  We enjoyed nearly every variety of German beer, but Weissbier was in particular our favorite.  We were able to sample many types as beer is sold in single half liter bottles, often less than a dollar a bottle.  The only disappointment of Berlin was having to leave , but fortunately we will be returning to Germany later this month in Munich.





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